I realized yesterday that our living room is just about about the size of the island in Chris’s aunt’s kitchen. Granted, her kitchen is super-sized, but that still tells you something, doesn’t it?
Currently, a huge piece of surface material is taking up about a quarter of the total space, smack in the middle of it all. It makes getting around the apartment challenging. You have to shimmy around it, but mind the wires!, because you might trip like I did this morning, knocking over a speaker that had been playing Lykke Li. (I don’t think it’s broken.)
Chris likes to joke that the entire apartment has become my studio, and he’s not kidding. Lining one wall are foamboards and reflectors and all kinds of surfaces. Lining the opposite wall are stacks of bowls, plates, jars, glassware, silverware, pots, pans, and other props. It’s a delicate situation.
The kitchen is no exception, both in the fact that it’s tiny (I’ve touched on this before), and that I treat it as an extension of my studio. Open any drawer and you’ll discover the tricks of my trade: a rolling pin balanced precariously atop a couple mortars, pestles off to the side, an entire drawerful of random shiny gizmo-gadgets: biscuit cutters, the candy thermometer, a milk frother. And watch out if you want to grab a baking sheet: you’ll have to dig through a mountain of metallica, maneuvering your hand through tiny crevices and odd corners.
Oh, the life of a food blogger.
The truth is, despite having all this stuff lying around, I still find myself gravitating towards simple recipes, today’s being no exception. I like using ingredients that are in season (well, I guess that’s true of many of us), and I like being able to really taste their essence.
Maybe that makes me lazy. Or maybe it makes me a faux-Alice Waters in training? I’ll let you decide.
To tell you the truth, being newly open to baking with citruses and all, I had planned on preparing something a little more ambitious for today. In my head, I envisioned perfect mini tarts filled with silky caramel and topped with this blood orange curd, glistening of course. I really intended to stun you all away with my baking prowess.
But: a) and mostly importantly, I have no baking prowess, and b) there are bills to pay (also very important, come to think of it), so I let my intentions dwindle into this blood orange curd, which ended up being a real treat.
I’m with Kate on this one. The word ‘curd’ just doesn’t do it for me. It rhymes with ‘turd’ for one thing, and ugh, the tongue seems to linger on that ‘r,’ drawing it out so it sounds like you’re insulting someone.
Anyway, as you can see, the citrus obsession continues. (Amy! I’m filling your plate with more citrus!) Please don’t let its name detract from what it is, because that would be doing a great disservice to this recipe.
Though the butter and egg yolk have the effect of mellowing out the acidity of the orange, the citrus flavor really comes through. I like how blood oranges aren’t super sweet; it really helps keep the sweetness factor in check. And I like how the curd is creamy, like a buttery jam. It tastes really good on plain toast (in particular, it pairs really well with this poppy seed bread we have in the house).
I was surprised with how the color turned out, because the juice was such a vivid coral, but again, mellowing occurred and the pinkish-red turned into a pretty pastel orange. Don’t you love lovely-looking food?
Other ways in which to use your curd (ugh, that sounds so dirty):
In other words, you can pretty much do whatever you feel like with the stuff. So go, go and make your blood orange caramel tarts, see if I care!
Budino is Italian for pudding, and I’m assuming this recipe is Italian in origin because it comes to us from Craig Stoll, owner of San Francisco’s Delfina. (Oh, SF, any mention of you sends prickles of homesickness down my spine.) What I can tell you is that it’s part souffle, part gooey lemon-y goodness. Especially if it’s countered with a mascarpone whipping cream, which rounds out its fruitiness.
I can also tell you that I love love love Meyer lemons, which I eat, raw, just like oranges, except I cut them in quarters and rip out their flesh with my teeth (kind of like how Chinese people eat oranges—or is this practice more international than I realize?).
I kind of realized along the way (the ‘way’ being the entire circuitous route I’ve taken to learning to bake) that I don’t really care for baked lemon desserts. I’m talking about tarts and pies, and those bar things that people always seem to make a huge fuss over. It’s probably a cultural thing. Chinese people don’t generally cook fruit into desserts, instead, preferring to eat it on its own, so it feels incongruous to pair its freshness and natural-ness with butter, dough, and high temperatures.
But Meyer lemon desserts, they’re in a league of their own. Meyer lemons possess a whole other dimension of floral-ness, a fragrance that reminds me of Asian dessert flavors like green tea and red bean and black sesame. It’s quieter, sweeter, less in-your-face. In fact, I’m rethinking my stance on lemon-y desserts, as long as they’re made with Meyer lemons. I would probably like Meyer-lemon lemon bars, and Meyer-lemon lemon meringue pie, and Meyer-lemon lemon shortbread. I know I like it in this budino.
Hint: it’s wonderful warm and fresh out of the oven, BUT if you give it a chance to sit in the fridge overnight, it is even better the next day. By then, three distinct layers will have formed: the dreamy pudding on the bottom, the feathery sponge cake layer on top, and an incredibly lush cheesecake-like layer in between. It is excellent. Excellent!
I was originally intending to share this recipe with you, except the feta frozen yogurt turned out tasting like stale socks. No, doesn’t sound enticing? I don’t think so either.
What redeemed the recipe for me was this granita, which is meant to accompany the froyo kind of like a sidekick. An outrageous and daring one. That ended up stealing the show. First to enter the stage is the bright punch of blood orange, vibrant and vivacious, a vixen if you will. In typical two-step fashion, the mint comes later and imparts its cooling aftertaste reminiscent of my favorite beverage: the mojito.
I’m happy I have something to show for my efforts. And is it something! My magpie tendencies kicked into high gear after I’d crunched it up with a fork. All I wanted to do was bottle it up and hold it captive to the light. But, looks aren’t everything, and in this case, this granita functions perfectly as a guilt-free dessert. I mean, it’s basically a deconstructed sno-cone minus the artificial flavoring and more gorgeously-flavored.
Granitas are so simple to make! More clean-up than preparation, you basically juice and zest the heck out of blood oranges (I believe the proper term is ‘pulverize’ haha), toss a handful of mint in, and blend. Run the sludgy liquid through a sieve, freeze the remains, and ta-da! The granita is born.