Caponata, And the Rainstorm of Rainstorms
Medically reviewed by Christiana George Updated Date: June 8, 2023

Remember how I said that I’d rekindled my love for eggplant? Well, part of that was helped along by some amazing caponata—an Italian eggplant appetizer—I had one tempestuous evening at a little Italian restaurant close to Lincoln Center.
There’s something so glamorous about dining al fresco during a storm. While many restaurant patrons made for drier parts, namely indoors, our table staunchly remained, seated at the threshold of getting absolutely drenched. Lightning streaked spectacularly across the sky, sideways(!), followed by the low rumbling of thunder. And the light of passing cars, refracted by the rain, shimmered like mirages, except their honking sounded all too real. I will never tire of these dramatic shows.
But back to that caponata. There we were, seated outside during a thrilling thunderstorm, sheets of rain spraying at us at oblique angles, and I was downing eggplant like there was no tomorrow. It was so flavorful, so moist! I forgot my manners. I was the only un-glamorous element of the whole setup. At least everyone was distracted by the lightning around us and a leak above one of our heads.

Back at home, I tried to replicate the dish, starting with choice eggplant from the Union Square Greenmarket. I will never tire of the Greenmarket. (But I can’t wait for the damn F train to get fixed so I’m not trudging 12 blocks back to the subway with quickly-wilting plant matter.)

It turns out, there’s no one recipe for caponata. At its base, it’s eggplant cooked until it’s really soft, in a tomato-y sauce. But beyond that, well, just as there are thousands of regional cuisines in Italy, there are endless variations of this classic antipasto.
I stuck with good old pantry staples.

I realize it doesn’t appear wholly appetizing, but please try not to judge it harshly. It does its best. Eggplant just sort of, well, does that wilting thing, where it turns grayish-brown and flaccid, but that doesn’t make it any less lovable. Not to me at least.
And its taste? Well, it’s not the same as what I remember. This caponata didn’t turn out as flavorful or as moist. It’s kind of a different food altogether. Less tang, more… something. I wasn’t sure what to think. But then my friend came over the other night, and we shoveled most of it down. As if there was no tomorrow. I forgot my manners. And I must’ve looked so un-glamorous. But I looked up and saw that she wasn’t noticing, because she was doing the same.

CAPONATA
Serves 6 to 8
From Bon Appetit
Ingredients:
5 Tbsp olive oil
1-1/2 pound eggplant, unpeeled, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 medium onion, cubed
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 14-1/2 ounce can diced tomatoes with Italian seasonings in juice
3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp drained capers
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil
Toasted pine nuts
Directions:
Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add eggplant, onion, and garlic cloves. Saute until eggplant is soft and brown, about 15 minutes. Add diced tomatoes with juice, then red wine vinegar and capers. Cover and simmer until eggplant and onion are very tender, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes. Season caponata to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in fresh basil. Transfer caponata to serving bowl. Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts.
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Olive Oil Cake, or a Make-Believe Rainy Day

A thunderstorm last night sent the Family-Across-the-Street-that-Conducts-All-Its-Business-on-Its-Front-Stoop scuttling indoors. And I woke up this morning with a need—no, scratch that—a COMPULSION to bake. Cause and effect? Probably. No, I’m not implying that the family retiring early from their stoop was the reason behind this unseasonal impulse, but rather, my deep-rooted association of rain with baking. I wonder if this instinct makes biological sense?
But alas, the day promised to be hot. The oven whined when I turned it on. The faucet seized up. Dishes toppled from the rack, spices threatened to tip. ‘It’s not a rainy day, you fool,’ the spirit of the kitchen cried out to me. But I insisted that it was.

And with that, I started started pulling out ingredients, already knowing what I was going to bake. The spelt flour sat high up in the cupboard, the dark chocolate nibs atop the bookshelf. The rosemary I grabbed from the fridge, a little wilted but still presentable. Finally, the star of the show sat in its usual spot near the stove, a big bottle of olive oil we use for everyday cooking. You see, I was going to bake an olive oil cake. Not just any olive oil cake, but the one created by Kim Boyce of Good to the Grain fame.
This is a cake I’ve wanted to bake for ages. With so many others setting the precedent and my inherent trust in Kim’s recipes (you could seduce someone with her whole wheat chocolate chip cookies), it promised to be delicious.

And sure enough, the olive oil worked its mysterious magic, offset by the subtle flavor of the rosemary and dark chocolate. Overall, it’s a rustic, everyday cake, but with an aromatic twist, a restrained sweetness that makes it suitable for breakfast. And a mid-morning snack. And dessert too.
OLIVE OIL CAKE
From Good to the Grain, by Kim Boyce
Makes 1 9-inch round cake
Ingredients:
Olive oil for the pan
Dry Mix:
3/4 cup spelt flour
1-1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1-1/2 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp kosher salt
Wet Mix:
3 eggs
1 cup olive oil
3/4 cup whole milk
1-1/2 Tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (about 70% cacao), roughly chopped

Directions:
Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Rub a 9-1/2-inch tart pan with olive oil.
Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly. Add the olive oil, milk, and rosemary and whisk again. Using a spatula, fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, mixing gently until just combined. Stir in the chocolate. Pour the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly.
Bake about 40 minutes, or until the top is domed and golden brown and the edges are darker, or until a toothpick through the center comes out clean.
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