Fresh Fig Tartlets, or Using up the Fridge

Christiana George
Fig Tart lets

How can I put this? These tartlets are prettier than they taste.

There. I said it. Is it horrible for me to admit that? I mean, what kind of food blogger am I if I’m posting only subpar recipes on my blog?

I can’t help it that figs are so goddamn gorgeous!



On the other hand, the filling, goat cheese flavored, was kind of jarring, a little too weird I guess. I like the fig/goat cheese combination, but as a dessert, I’m afraid I cannot endorse the flavors.

So please, pretend I made this instead. I was originally intending to—I love mascarpone in desserts—but there was an open carton of heavy cream, a package of goat cheese, and some leftover sweet tart dough in the fridge that seemed on the verge of expiring. And when it’s My Stomach vs. The Garbage, I’d much rather the former win, wouldn’t you?

I keep hoping that over time, I’ll learn to be a more prudent shopper. The kind who knows what she’s going to cook in the upcoming week. The kind who doesn’t end up tossing moldy bread and vegetables that have turned to mush and strange-smelling leftovers into the garbage. The kind who knows how to jie jue, get rid of. My dad always used to use this phrase whenever there was something that was on the verge of going bad that absolutely had to be eaten. He would make us feel guilty when he sacrificed his stomach for the higher cause of Food Conservation. The guilt didn’t stick, evidently.

I shouldn’t be too hard on myself because I’m not that bad. Has anyone mastered the art of not wasting food, completely and utterly? I dare you to say yes—and then to explain how you do it. Like, what would you do if you had, say, half a can of canned tomatoes and coconut milk that had been sitting around for awhile, a half bag of brownish green beans, a few stalks of withering scallions, a moldy hunk of cheddar, a bagful of sludge-y mixed greens, and about-to-expire whole milk to get rid of?

That’s not hypothetical by the way.

As far as these fig tartlets are concerned, they tasted alright, especially within the first couple hours of the figs being sliced and filling being made. To improve their taste, here’s what I would do: increase the honey by a significant amount until it almost masks the flavor of the goat cheese. (I ran out of honey, go figure.)

Or I would just make the mascarpone filling. But only if you’ve got some around that needs to be used up.



FRESH FIG TARTLETS

Sweet tart dough recipe from Tartine
Makes roughly 6 4-inch tartlets, though you may have leftover filling

Ingredients:

For the tart dough:
1/2 cup + 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1 large egg, room temperature
1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

For the filling:
2 cups heavy cream, cold
4 oz. goat cheese, room temperature
1/4 cup honey (I would recommend using more, to taste)
1/2 tsp vanilla extract

8 to 10 fresh figs

Directions:

For the tart dough:

Using a stand mixer, mix on medium speed the butter, sugar, and salt until smooth. Mix in the egg. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the flour all at once and mix on low speed until just incorporated.

On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough into 2 equal balls and shape each into a disk of about 1/2 inch thick. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.

When you’re ready to line a tart pan, on a lightly floured surface, roll out a disk until it’s about 1/8 inch thick. Work quickly so the dough doesn’t become too warm and unworkable. (Refrigerate it for about 10 minutes when this happens.) Cut out a circle larger than the mold, then ease the circle lightly onto the pan. Gently press in the sides, but try not to stretch the dough too much or it’ll shrink during baking. Refrigerate the shell for about 15 minutes until it is firm. (At this point, you can store your dough in the fridge for later use.)



Start preheating your oven at 325 degrees. Dock (make small holes using a fork) the bottom of the tart shell. Bake them in the oven for 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

For the filling:

In the bowl of a stand mixer outfitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream to medium stiff peaks. In another bowl, mix the goat cheese, honey, and vanilla and gently fold in the whipped cream.

To assemble:

Spoon the filling into the cooled shell. Slice the figs into sixths and arrange on top of the filling.



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Lemon Frozen Yogurt, à la Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream

Christiana George
LEMON FROZEN YOGURT

A couple weeks back, I mentioned how I got to try Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream for the first time ever. And while the famous salted caramel was lip-smackingly good (intensely salty AND sweet), I couldn’t stop thinking about the lemon and blueberry fro-yo, particularly because of the lemon frozen yogurt base. It was tangy and delicate, falling just short of palate-cleansing because it was still quite creamy.

So even though it’s not really frozen desserts weather anymore (oh hell, who am I kidding? I could eat frozen desserts any time of the year (although I think that claim’s actually going to be tested this winter (and are parentheses within parentheses within parentheses grammatically incorrect?))), I couldn’t wait until next year to try out this recipe.

Like Molly said, the recipe’s a bit fussy. It requires very exact timing and the use of many many bowls. And I didn’t even make the blueberry swirl because I wanted the unadulterated taste of lemon. But I didn’t mind it—following directions gets to be kind of meditative after awhile. Just know that you’ve been warned, if you decide to go through with it.



If you follow the directions precisely—ROOM TEMPERATURE cream cheese! I can’t stress that enough—you will most certainly end up with a lovely quart of fro-yo in the lightest shade of yellow. It doesn’t turn icy even after it’s been in the freezer for a few days, it doesn’t melt too fast (or too slow for that matter). It really is the perfect way to savor Jeni’s at home.

Lemon Frozen Yogurt
Lemon Frozen Yogurt

LEMON FRO-YO

Recipe from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home via Orangette

Yields over a quart

Ingredients:

For the lemon syrup:

2 to 4 lemons
3 Tbsp sugar

For the frozen yogurt base:



1 quart plain low-fat yogurt
1-1/2 cups whole milk
2 Tbsp corn starch
2 oz. (4 Tbsp) cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
Zest from one lemon, reserved from lemon syrup

Directions:

One day in advance, Put a mesh sieve lined with 2 layers of cheesecloth over a bowl and pour the plain yogurt into the sieve. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 6 to 8 hours (I kept it in the fridge for over 24 hours and it turned out fine).

For the lemon syrup, first use a vegetable peeler to peel the zest off one lemon in long strips. Reserve for the frozen yogurt base. Then juice enough of the lemons to yield 1/2 cup. Combine the lemon juice and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

For the frozen yogurt:

Remove the plain yogurt from the fridge and measure out 1-1/4 cups worth. Set aside.

Combine 2 Tbsp of the milk in a small bowl with the corn starch.

In a bowl (that will eventually need to fit the entire fro-yo base), whisk the cream cheese until smooth (very smooth! The cream cheese should definitely be at room temperature or it will whisk into clumps).

Combine the remaining milk, heavy cream, sugar, corn syrup, and strips of lemon in a large pot (Jeni specifies a pot with 4-quart capacity, but I really don’t think it’s necessary for this particular recipe. A large-ish pot will do). Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat and boil for exactly 4 minutes. Towards the end of the 4 minutes, whisk the corn starch and milk until it’s a smooth slurry. Remove the pot from the heat and slowly whisk in the corn starch mixture. Return the pot to the heat, and continue to cook, stirring consistently, for 1 more minute, until the liquid starts to thicken. Remove from heat, and gradually whisk the milk mixture into the bowl with the cream cheese until smooth. Add the reserved 1-1/4 cup plain yogurt and the lemon syrup. Whisk until smooth.

Let cool, then refrigerate the mixture for about 6 hours. Remove from fridge, pick out the strips of lemon (you could pour the mix through a sieve, but it’s quite thick and unmanageable at this point). Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream machine, and spin until thick and creamy.



Once done churning, pour the fro-yo in a container and refrigerate it until firm.



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