Pumpkin Bagels

Have you ever had a Noah’s Bagels pumpkin bagel? I think it singlehandedly converted me into a bagel lover. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately?), it’s seasonal, so it’s only obtainable one fleeting time a year, making it limited edition and therefore that much more desirable (like those mint chocolate Kisses that they sell around Christmas, have you had them?) And after I graduated from college and moved out of my college town, I stopped going to Noah’s altogether. Which is a shame, because pumpkin bagels, you have been sorely missed!
Well, I’ve got news for you. Homemade pumpkin bagels are just as good. Or, nearly as good, because in my case, they turned out rather ugly. Knobby. Imperfect, through and through. But seriously, homemade bagels, where have you been all my life? Just floating around, a vague idea in my head, that I never pulled off because I’d mistakenly thought you were really hard to make.

That’s the thing: these bagels were not difficult to make at all. I know that there are lots of ways to complicate the process, resulting in Bronx-worthy (and better-looking) bagels, but besides the extra step of boiling them, which admittedly was rather tense because I was trying to brush the egg wash on the cooked bagels and top them at the same time, most of the work was performed by my Kitchenaid mixer.
The bagels are so delicious when they come out of the oven. Soft but springy from the extra long bath I gave them, and laced with pumpkin. I also incorporated whole wheat flour into the recipe, resulting in the perfect fall breakfast food alongside a steaming cup of coffee. But make sure to toast them, because we all know that bagels taste best lightly toasted with a thick smear of cream cheese (the sliced tomatoes are optional. And the lox is a splurge!) But please please please don’t eat them with low-fat cream cheese. (We usually avoid low-fat products, but our grocery store had run out of the regular whipped kind.) It’s no substitute.


PUMPKIN BAGELS
Adapted from Honest Cooking
Makes 8
Ingredients:
- 2-1/4 tsps. active dry yeast
- 1 cup warm water
- 1/3 cup brown sugar
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 cup whole-wheat flour
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1/4 tsp ground ginger
- 1/4 tsp allspice
- 1/2 cup unsweeted pumpkin puree
- 1 Tbsp baking soda
- 1 egg
- cornmeal for dusting baking pan
Toppings:
- 2:2:1 of poppy seeds
- sesame seeds
- sea salt
- poppy seeds
- pumpkin seeds
- black sesame seeds
- sesame seeds, etc.
Directions:
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine yeast, water, and brown sugar. Whisk together and set aside.
In the meantime, in a large bowl, combine flours, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. By now, the yeast mixture should be frothy and ready to go. Add the pumpkin puree and using the dough hook, start mixing on low speed. Slowly add the flour mixture until it’s completely combined, about 3 to 5 minutes. At this point, the dough should be smooth and elastic, but not too sticky. If it is, incorporate 1 to 2 more Tbsps of flour.
Place dough in a bowl coated with oil and cover, allowing it to rise in a warm place until dough doubles in size, about 90 minutes.
Remove the dough and punch it down. Divide it into 8 equal pieces and roll them into balls. Cover and let rise about 20 minutes more.
At this point, using your thumb, punch a hole into the middle of the ball and widen it, taking care that the ring is even on all sides. Widen the hole more than you think necessary, because it will shrink. Set the dough on a lightly greased baking sheet. Repeat with the other balls.
Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F and get the egg wash ready.
Fill a large pot about halfway with water and bring it to a boil. When it’s started boiling, pour in the baking soda (. Then gently drop 2 to 3 bagels in and cook for 2 minutes. Flip them and cook for 2 minutes more (the longer you boil the bagels, the chewier they will turn out. I like my bagels chewy. You can boil them for 1 minute on each side if you’d like.) Once done, remove them with a slotted spoon and drain well on paper towels. Then brush them with the egg wash and top with whatever toppings you’d like. Sprinkle cornmeal on the baking pan you had set them on earlier. Place the bagels on top. Repeat the same procedure with the rest of the bagels.
Once all the bagels have been boiled, bake them in for 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. Let them cool before digging in.
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Pappardelle With Wild Mushrooms

With Thanksgiving over, I’ve switched to Winter Mode.
Winter Mode consists of uplifting meals whose main ingredients might include any or all of the following: pasta and/or noodles, cheese, butter, cream, and excessive liquid. Bacon makes a recurring appearance. As does chocolate. My preferred mode of cooking becomes baking. Or boiling. Boiling noodles, that is.

Of course, because our radiator goes on overdrive each and every night, we’re met with a rather bewildering dinnertime situation. To set the scene: we’re minimally dressed. No socks, no sweaters. We’re wearing t-shirts, shorts even. The window’s open—god, can we get some snow in here or something? (Just kidding, but I can’t wait!) While we eat, pools of sweat build up on our foreheads, right by our hairlines. (Why do I bother washing my hair?) My armpits start feeling damp, I’m blowing like crazy on each bite to cool it down.
It’s contradictory-feeling, the heat, and confuses my body greatly. I’m craving fats and proteins, but responding to the stuff adversely once I get it.
But it’s alright. There’s ice cream in the freezer, the perfect after-dinner aid. Armed with a heaping bowl each, we can dangle our feet on our fire escape and contemplate the following day.

To counter the richness, there are mushrooms.
In my estimation, mushrooms are the perfect stand-in for meat. They’re portly and satisfying, with their own irresistible flavors to boot. Plus, they’re not bad on the eyes. (Can tofu boast such a quality? I think not.)
I like shiitake mushrooms the best, but I like mixing them even more. This wild mushroom pasta serves them up simply, with a liberal sprinkling of parmesan cheese and parsley. I think the trick is to not overdo it on the pappardelle, which has the tendency to dry out the dish. While the original recipe called for an approximate one-to-one ratio of pasta and mushrooms, I would halve the heavy (albeit delicious) pappardelle and even increase the amount of mushrooms just a tad.
That way, you’ll really taste the garlicky mushrooms but get to savor the luscious pappardelle as well.
My body can cope with that.



PAPPARDELLE WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Adapted from The Naked Chef by Jamie Oliver
Serves 2
Ingredients:
- 12 oz. mixed mushrooms
- 3 Tbsp olive oil
- 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
- Dried red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper to taste
- juice of 1/2 lemon
- up to 8 oz. pappardelle
- 1/2 stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter
- a small handful of grated Parmesan cheese
- a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Directions:
Brush off dirt from the mushrooms and slice thinly. In a very hot frying pan, add the olive oil, then the mushrooms. Let them fry fast, tossing once or twice, then add the garlic and red pepper flakes with a pinch of salt (season lightly, Jamie instructs, as a little really brings out the flavor). Continue to fry fast for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing regularly. Then turn the heat off and squeeze in the lemon juice. Toss and season to taste.
Meanwhile cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Add to the mushrooms, with the parmesan, parsley and butter. Toss gently, coating the pasta with the mushrooms and their flavor. Serve, scraping out all of the last bits of mushroom from the pan, and sprinkle with a little extra parsley and Parmesan.
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